The ‘Jeff’ – Vol II

Right, so we left of with the ‘cap’ part of the Jeff flatcap finished, so on to the body of the hat. As a reminder, our block for this project was the Guru’s classic cap block.

The body of the hat was to be made in two parts. Firstly, the ‘ribbon’, which is the piece of fabric that runs around the head, and secondly the top of the hat which holds everything together (‘ribbon’ and cap).

To make the ribbon, I measured the circumference of the broadest point on the block, and cut two bias strips. Using the aforementioned careful ironing technique, I ironed the fabric to some stayflex (this comes in black or white) and then attached the two pieces together on the sewing machine (to form symmetrical side seams at the temple of the hat).

Jeff  ‘ribbon’ , with stayflex

Sewing the two parts of the ribbon together required the use of a sewing machine – tres fun! Although my abilities with sewing machines were near to zilch, they soon improved and very little unpicking was required.

Once the two pieces were symmetrically sewn together, it was time to block, starting from the back. I pinned the top of the piece in four places (usual method of front, back, side and side) to keep in place and put pin in the botton front first so that it would not move around and twist the side seams.

Jeff – body blocking

With help from the Guru, I blocked the bottom part of the fabric first, just over the block collar, leaving plenty of fabric to use as a seam later on.

Next, the top of the fabric was blocked. This required a lot of ‘gentle’ force, to make sure the fabric was blocked evenly all round. Fabric blocked, I then steamed it and left to dry.

Whilst the ribbon part of the hat was drying into shape, I cut a bias strip of fabric for the top. Removing the now dry ribbon, I blocked this, covering as much of the top of the block as possible. I made sure the pile was going from front to back – hats should always be lighter at the front (the effect of going with the pile) and darker at the back (against the pile) – this has always been the rule, so even though I’m not sure I understand… I went with it.

Top fabric blocked, it was steamed and left to dry. The next step was to sew the two together. The ribbon was pulled gently over the top – very carefully, as piled fabric is very keen to move and slip around. Once placed correctly, it was sewn into place using an invisible stitch.

A few notes:

  • Cord/velvet – never, ever touch when wet or right after steaming. It will leave a mark that won’t go away
  • Positioning the two pieces: a little bit of moving around and rough calculating of where the cap will go is needed. Unfortunately, there is no exact method for this, just trial and error.

And here it is, Jeff, stage 2. Next time, the beautiful lining, and final touches.

x

Jeff – ribbon and top of hat

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3 Comments

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3 responses to “The ‘Jeff’ – Vol II

  1. Jocelyn

    Hi Jasmine,
    I really enjoyed reading your posts! I live in San Diego and am going to the Del Mar races in August. I decided to make a hat for the first time and that’s how I found your site. I was a little (just a little!) disappointed though that you did a Jeff hat because I was hoping for one like the “First Hat” but in wool or other wintery type material to help guide me in making my hat, but I digress. The Jeff hat is cool though :)

    I am using cream colored wool coating from a wool coat jacket I found at Goodwill (recycling is good!); won’t be doing it until I get back in August though. Oops forgot to finish! Good luck with everything!!

    • Hello! So glad you are enjoying the blog. I am working on something similar to what you describe (fabric hat), so keep a look out when you are making your hat in August and maybe it will help – the principles tend to be the same. Great idea to recycle wool from old quality clothing- I look forward to hearing about your hat and maybe seeing some pictures!? Good luck with it! If there is anything in particular you would like to read about, please let me know as always great to get reader feedback xx

  2. Pingback: The ‘Jeff’ – finale! | How to be a Milliner

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